DeFuniak Springs, Florida

home  |  organics  |  natives  |  green life  |  wildlife  |  events  |  projects  |  links  |  Gallery

basics | compost | dirt | veggies | disease | fertilizers | insects | lawns | planting | pruning 



Article on Pruning Fruit Trees
 

"Size up all the angles when young branches emerge"

This time of year, your fruit trees are just waiting. Waiting for spring to come, when the great pumps that are their roots will circulate nourishing fluids and growth hormones through the tree. As this happens, buds begin to swell and eventually lengthen into shoots and branches.

If the shoot emerges from the main stem at nearly a right angle, the attachment likely will be strong. If it emerges at a narrow angle (less than 30 degrees from the vertical axis) the attachment will be weaker and more vulnerable to ice, wind or a load of fruit. Eventually the weak branch could end up on the ground, your roof or a car. The resulting wound also offers excellent entry into the tree for diseases and pests.

Calamity is more likely if bark at a crotch disappears into the fork. When bark grows into a tree's interior, it interferes with normal development of crotch tissue. If the bark edges are raised along the fork, the attachment is probably OK.

Narrow crotches can occur on any tree. It is fairly common in peaches and plums, and I have also seen it on apple, pear and persimmon trees. You can avoid all this if you catch a potential problem early The easiest solution is to simply rub off poorly placed buds and shoots as they form. Or as the young shoot develops, use a toothpick to gently force the shoot down slightly into a wider angle.

If a stronger spreader is needed, use an old-fashioned clothes pin with a metal spring near one end. Attach the small end of the clip to the main stem and slide it down until the splayed legs of the clip press on the shoot and gently force it down.

On large-caliper branches, you can use branch spreaders. You can buy them or use a length of wood with either a notch or a nail point at each end. Spread the branch and insert the sharp nail ends into the bark to hold it in place. I have never seen damage caused by the tiny nail punctures, but insert them on a dry day just to be cautious. For cherry and peach trees, where sap may flow freely from the wound, use notched spreaders instead. I generally leave branch spreaders in for a year.

As branch angles decrease to less than 30 degrees measured from the main stem, productivity drops. Professional orchardists use commercial branch spreaders to maximize their trees' fruiting potential and limb strength.

Paying attention to branch angles will help protect your investment.

By Vern Nelson Contributing writer, The Oregonian

SOURCE

Raintree Nursery 391 Butts Road Morton, Wash. 98366-9700 1 -360-496-6400 Free catalog; sells branch spreaders.

 

basics | compost | dirt | veggies | disease | fertilizers | insects | lawns | planting | pruning 

home  |  organics  |  natives  |  green life  |  wildlife  |  events  |  projects  |  links

Copyright © 2003-2006 DeFuniak Springs Garden Club
If you have any questions or comments you may write to our webgardener

The DeFuniak Springs Garden Club is a member of National Garden Clubs, Inc.
Deep South Region Florida Federation of Garden Clubs District 1

The banner art is copyright © 1994 Marjolein Bastin