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The Basics of Planting

Whitcomb's Revised Tree Planting Rules

                                            

The following is a step by step guide compiled by Prof. Carl Whitcomb of  Oklahoma  State University after a series of field trials testing traditional methods of tree planting.  Please note the emphasis on watering:

1.   Select plants well-adapted to the soil, light level and micro climates of the site.

 

2.   Make the planting hole as wide as possible, at least 18 to 24 inches wider than the root ball.

 

3.   If the spade has glazed the sides of the hole, break up the compacted soil.

 

4.   Fill the hole with the same soil removed from the hole.  Don't mix amendments with the soil.

 

5.   To get rid of air pockets, water as you backfill.  If you tread the soil around the tree or shrub, tread lightly.

 

6.   Water several hours after planting and again every 7 - 10 days  for the first season.

        

7.   Mulch heavily five to seven feet out from trees, three to four feet from shrubs.  Mulch three to four inches deep using barkdust or compost.

 

8.   Prune as little as possible.  Remove only damaged branches.  Prune for shape after the plant is well-established.

 

9.   Stake only if necessary (for trees with especially large canopies).

 

10. Fertilize immediately after planting and again the next fall after leaf drop.  Use slow release organic fertilizer.  Apply only to soil surface.

 


 

Revised tree planting techniques
in a nut-shell:

 

Plant in unamended soil:  A tree or shrub planted in unamended soil adjusts quickly and makes steady, uninterrupted progress.  A tree planted in soil with compost, manure or peat moss and fertilizers added to the planting hole may start out well.    But as soon as new roots hit the unamended soil surrounding the planting hole, it is often severely set back.

 

Staking often not necessary.  Except when planting large trees with broad canopies, field trials have shown most young trees do better without staking.  The natural air movement encourages strong root growth.

 

Early pruning does more harm than good.  The common practice of top pruning a tree or shrub to make up for root loss in transplanting actually stimulates more top growth at the expense of root growth.   Remove only damaged branches at planting.


 

 

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